Brick Stitch Tutorial

I have started making tutorial videos and instructions for different bead stitches. A few weeks ago, I went over Even Count Peyote Stitch and if you're interested, you can see it here. And then last week I went over Ladder Stitch. This week we are going to go over brick stitch. So if you've ever wanted to learn how to do brick stitch, check it out below. 

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Just like before, there is a video and written instructions, so however you like to learn, there is an option. 

This is only my third video, so it's not perfect, but I'm getting better with everyone that I do. I am also working on setting up a YouTube channel for my videos, so that should be a thing within the month. 

So let's get started!

When starting brick stitch, you need a good base. That base is made using ladder stitch, check out my last tutorial on how to create a good ladder stitch base here. 

So you want to learn how to do brick stitch? Well, what are we waiting for, let's get learning. 

First, when doing any beadwork, you want to make sure that you are using a comfortable amount of stringing material. There are a few camps when you talk about thread length.

• One camp likes to use the full length of thread that will be used for the project. This way you never have to work new thread in.
• The second camp uses just an arms length worth of thread. This way you pull the thread through with one pull and you reduce the chances of tangles. You do have to work new thread in this way. 

I personally like to use the second method. I will measure out two arms lengths of thread, then I will double up the thread (sometimes I use a double thread, sometimes I use a single thread, but I pull 90% of the tail end through the needle, so it's about one arms length worth of material for each pull). I find this method is the easiest on my hands and arms when I bead. 

When I first started out, I tried the first method and it was so frustrating to me. I had so many tangles it made me want to give up, but I didn't want to work in new thread (a fear of all new beaders). But I eventually learned that working thread in is not something that should be feared and it's a lot easier than you think (there will also be a short tutorial for that). 

It is up to you what you want to use. There is no right or wrong way and you have to find the way that works best for you. 

As always, I'll be using these great melty beads (perler beads) so that you can see every step clearly. I'll also be using a large needle and some heavy duty thread. These are not only great for me to demonstrate different stitches to you, but they are great for people who are new to beading. So if you're worried about using those tiny little beads, that's okay, start with these and it will be smooth sailing.

Let's get started. First we'll thread our needle. For brick stitch, you do not need to use a stop bead. We are going to construction a bottom by weaving in and out of the beads. This will create a strong foundation for our beadwork. This is done by creating a row of Ladder Stitch. You can see the tutorial here. 

​In this example I used 5 beads for my ladder stitch base. See Photo 01

Once you have your first row of ladder stitch finished, we will start on row two. Row two is where we will start our brick stitch.

Pick up two beads for row two. In this example I used blue as my second row and these beads will be #6 and #7. See Photo 02

Move your beads up to the base row.  See Photo 03 

You are now going to take your needle and go UNDER the thread between beads #4 and #5. See Photo 04

Make sure to not go through your thread. This will weaken your thread and it will also make it very difficult to undo any beadwork (fingers crossed we don't ever have to do that). 

Pull the thread all the way through until beads #6 and #7 are snug up against your base row. 

Now to get your beads to sit snuggly in place, you want to go up through bead #7. Pull your thread tight and you are ready to add the next bead. See photo 05
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You might notice that bead #6 will hang over the edge, that is what we want. This stitch will look like peyote turned on it's side. 

Each new row will be started using two beads like this.

Your thread will now becoming out of the top of bead #7 in the second row (blue in this example). See Photo 06

You are not ready to add the rest of row #2. The rest of the row will be added one bead at a time. 

Pick up one bead (this will be bead #8). See photo 07

You will now go through the thread between beads #3 and #4. See photo 08

Pull the thread tight and bead #8 should fall into place next to bead #7 

Bead Tip
Each bead added will be in-between the bead below it. This is why it is called Brick stitch because it looks like the alternating bricks in a brick wall. 

You will then go up through bead #8 to secure the bead in place. See photo 09

Pull your thread tight. You are now ready to add your next bead. 

Continue adding one bead at a time like above.

Pick up a bead, go through the thread between the bottom two beads, then go back up through the bead you just added. 

Continue this until you get to the end of your row. 

You will notice that when you get to the end of this row, your last bead (bead #10 in this example) will be indented a bit. This is what you want. Each row will be offset to one side compared to the one below it. 

To add the third row, it will be yellow in this example, you will pick up two beads again. See Photo 11

This is how you will start every new row, with two beads. Those beads will hang over the beadwork below it.

Go under the thread between beads #10 and #9. See photo 12

Pull your thread tight. 

When you pull your thread tight, your beads will line up next to each other. Bead #11 will hang over the row below it. 

Go up through bead #12 and pull your thread tight. See photo 13

Just like before, you will add the beads one at a time for the rest of the row. So pick up one bead. See photo 13

You will then go under the thread between bead #9 and bead #8. Pull the thread tight. Go back up through bead #13. Continue this method for each bead. 

The third row (yellow) will be offset from the second row (blue), but will line up with row number 1 (white). You can see clearly now why this stitch is called brick stitch. See photo 15

Continue adding rows like this until you get to your desired length. Each row will be offset from the one below it. It will look like peyote stitch on it's side. See photo 16

You can see how brick stitch compares to peyote stitch in photo 17 (peyote swatch is turned on it's side for comparison). 

Brick stitch is much more rigid than peyote stitch, so it is great for projects that need to hold their shape. 

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So that is basic brick stitch. I use this stitch a lot for pendants, pins, and earrings because it is more rigid. I will be doing a tutorial on increasing/decreasing brick stitch at a later date. I will also be doing a tutorial on reading a pattern. So stay tuned for those! 

So what did you think of this tutorial. Leave me a comment below letting me know what you thought. Did I leave out something important? Should I explain something a bit more? Would you like more photos? I'd love to hear from you! 

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Looking for more beady tutorials?

Even Count Flat Peyote Stitch - Click Here
Ladder Stitch - Click Here
Square Stitch - Coming Soon
Herringbone Stitch - Coming Soon
Two Drop Even Count Flat Peyote Stitch - Coming Soon
Odd Count Flat Peyote Stitch - Coming Soon
And many more!

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Other Helpful Goodies

Want to know how I keep track of where I am in a pattern? Click here to read about my method for staying on track.

What are my favorite beads to use for peyote? I love me some Delica cylinder beads. There are a number of awesome choices HERE. 

What are my favorite needles? Check out these great Tulip needles. They are some of the best needles out there. Click HERE for more info

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