Today's tutorial is a little different, but it's based on a question I get all the time. "How do I read this pattern?" Which means today I'm going to go over how to read that pesky peyote word chart that came with your pattern. I will be talking about how to read the graph in the next tutorial, so if that's more your cup of tea, it's coming soon.

​This article includes affiliate links from Etsy. That just means that I get a little fee if you click on the link or purchase something and no additional cost to you. That little fee helps me keep writing these articles. All my opinions are my own. I am featuring these products because I love them.

In this tutorial, I am going to be focusing on even count peyote stitch, but will be covering other stitches in future tutorials. Let's get started.

So maybe you are new to beading or maybe you are just new to patterns. I know I learned how to do basic stitches before I ever figured out how to read a pattern. I remember my first few attempts at following a pattern. It didn't go well. I don't think it helped that I decided the first pattern I would try would be a large tapestry. Looking back I see now that it really wasn't the best choice for my first attempt. 

To save you that frustration, I'm going to walk you through how to read that pattern and get you started on peyote project.

This tutorial is for beaders that already know how to do even count peyote stitch. If you are looking for a basic peyote tutorial, please see my tutorial here. 

And if you are looking for some awesome patterns, just stop by my Etsy shop and check out all my patterns. I suggest a simple pen wrap or small bracelet to get started with. Something that won't be too overwhelming. Well, that's enough self promotion, let's get on to the tutorial. 

As always there is both a video and a written tutorial because I know that everyone learns a little bit different. If videos aren't your thing, just scroll down to see the written tutorial. 

Here is the little pattern we are going to follow today. Just a simple even count peyote project. I have used a different color for each row, this way you can visualize the word chart easier. 

Before we jump in, let's talk about the different ways a word chart can be written. There are two ways a word chart​ can start. The chart can combine both rows 1 and 2 together or the chart can start with just row 1 (this is done with a starter strip and we will talk more about starter strips in a later tutorial). Today we will focus on the word chart that combines both rows 1 and 2. 

Let's take a look at the word chart. This is how the word charts in my patterns look. They may look a little different with other designers patterns, but the way they are read is the same. 

Let's beak down all the parts.

Row Number is which row you are working on

The L and R are the direction you are working in. 

I normally ignore this on a pattern because this will depend on how you hold your beadwork when you are working. I tend to flip my beadwork so I'm always working right to left. 

Next are the real important parts of you pattern. The number of beads, which are show as a number within parentheses in my patterns. And The bead color, which is represented by an uppercase letter in my patterns. 

Different designers represent bead color in a variety of ways. They can be an uppercase letter, like in mine, or they can be represented by a symbol or number or something else. Each designer might do it a bit different.

So how do you know what the designer uses? That will be represented by a legend like the one above. It might have more or less information, but it will give you all the information you need to know about how the word chart, as well as the graph, works. 

So in our example today, you can see that pink is represented with the capital A and there are 3 beads, of that color, in this pattern. 

So looking back at our word chart, we can see that our first row (our combined row of one and two) are white (I) and blue (B). 

Row 1 is white
Row 2 is blue

Here is what it would look like on your thread. 

The red bead is our stop bead and then working left to right we strung one blue (B), one white (I), one blue (B), one white (I), one blue (B), and one white (I). 

Now we have our first two rows completed, so let's make sure to cross off rows 1&2 on your pattern so you don't loose your place. You can see how I keep my place while beading here. 

Now that we have row 1 and row 2 on our thread, we're going to start row 3. 

In our example row three is 3 yellow beads (represented by the letter J in our word chart). 

Now hold up, you say. I thought this was an even count pattern, why are there three beads in each one of these rows? The last time I checked 3 is an odd number. You made a mistake. 

I know this can be confusing, I know I was confused the first time I saw this. Think of each one of these rows as "half rows". The beads are going to go in-between the beads of the previous row, so we won't be adding the the full 6 beads in this example, we'll be added "half" of the row or 3 beads. 

You also want to keep in mind that though the patterns says (3) J, we won't be adding all three beads at one. If we did that, we would get a loop of bead at the end of our row. 

This is kind of the tricky part about reading a word chart. You have to wrap your head around the fact that you have to count out the beads as you add them and they don't all go together. 

If you have trouble thinking about this, or if you are working on a large complex piece, you can always lay out the row of beads before you start. That way you just have to pick them up in order and not keep track of them in your head. They even make amazing bead boards that hold your little beads in neat little rows for you. Like this one HERE. ​

This is how it will look once you add those three yellow beads. 

See how each row 3 bead (yellow beads) goes between the row 2 beads (blue beads). 

Word charts always mess with my head because you added rows one and two, but the first bead you add (a blue bead in this example) is row 2 not row 1 and you end with a row 1 bead (a white bead in this example). I always have to remind myself that my thread will come out of row 1 and I will be added row  3 on top of row 1 and in-between row 2. That half step up always throws me off. 

Okay, so now it's time to add our forth row, which will be 3 green beads (represented by F in this example). We will add them just like we did row three. 

Here is what it looks like when you've added the forth row (three green beads). 

​You would just continue adding rows this way until you get to the end of the pattern. 

And that is how you read an even count peyote word chart. 

The toughest part in my opinion is getting started with that combined first row. Once you get past that and get your third row added, it's pretty easy sailing. 

So what did you think? Was there something I missed? Did this help get you started on that new pattern you just picked up? Let me know below in the comments what you thought of this tutorial. ​

Is there a tutorial that you really want me to do? Let me know in the comments. I'd love to hear from you.

Looking for more beady tutorials?
​Even Count Flat Peyote Stitch - Click Here
Ladder Stitch - Click Here
Brick Stitch - Click Here
Square Stitch - Coming Soon
Two Drop Even Count Flat Peyote Stitch - Coming Soon
Odd Count Flat Peyote Stitch - Coming Soon
And many more!

​Other Helpful Goodies

​Want to know how I keep track of where I am in a pattern? Click here to read about my method for staying on track.

What are my favorite beads to use for peyote? I love me some Delica cylinder beads. There are a number of awesome choices HERE. 

What are my favorite needles? Check out these great Tulip needles. They are some of the best needles out there. Click HERE for more info

I have started making tutorial videos and instructions for different bead stitches. A few weeks ago, I went over Even Count Peyote Stitch and if you're interested, you can see it here. And then last week I went over Ladder Stitch. This week we are going to go over brick stitch. So if you've ever wanted to learn how to do brick stitch, check it out below. 

This article includes affiliate links from Etsy. That just means that I get a little fee if you click on the link or purchase something and no additional cost to you. That little fee helps me keep writing these articles. All my opinions are my own. I am featuring these products because I love them. ​

Just like before, there is a video and written instructions, so however you like to learn, there is an option. 

This is only my third video, so it's not perfect, but I'm getting better with everyone that I do. I am also working on setting up a YouTube channel for my videos, so that should be a thing within the month. 

So let's get started!

When starting brick stitch, you need a good base. That base is made using ladder stitch, check out my last tutorial on how to create a good ladder stitch base here. 

As always, I'll be using these great melty beads (perler beads) so that you can see every step clearly. I'll also be using a large needle and some heavy duty thread. These are not only great for me to demonstrate different stitches to you, but they are great for people who are new to beading. So if you're worried about using those tiny little beads, that's okay, start with these and it will be smooth sailing.

Let's get started. First we'll thread our needle. For brick stitch, you do not need to use a stop bead. We are going to construction a bottom by weaving in and out of the beads. This will create a strong foundation for our beadwork. This is done by creating a row of Ladder Stitch. You can see the tutorial here. 

​In this example I used 5 beads for my ladder stitch base. See Photo 01

Once you have your first row of ladder stitch finished, we will start on row two. Row two is where we will start our brick stitch.

Pick up two beads for row two. In this example I used blue as my second row and these beads will be #6 and #7. See Photo 02

Move your beads up to the base row.  See Photo 03 

You are now going to take your needle and go UNDER the thread between beads #4 and #5. See Photo 04

Make sure to not go through your thread. This will weaken your thread and it will also make it very difficult to undo any beadwork (fingers crossed we don't ever have to do that). 

Pull the thread all the way through until beads #6 and #7 are snug up against your base row. 

Now to get your beads to sit snuggly in place, you want to go up through bead #7. Pull your thread tight and you are ready to add the next bead. See photo 05
​
You might notice that bead #6 will hang over the edge, that is what we want. This stitch will look like peyote turned on it's side. 

Each new row will be started using two beads like this.

Your thread will now becoming out of the top of bead #7 in the second row (blue in this example). See Photo 06

You are not ready to add the rest of row #2. The rest of the row will be added one bead at a time. 

Pick up one bead (this will be bead #8). See photo 07

You will now go through the thread between beads #3 and #4. See photo 08

Pull the thread tight and bead #8 should fall into place next to bead #7 

Bead Tip
Each bead added will be in-between the bead below it. This is why it is called Brick stitch because it looks like the alternating bricks in a brick wall. 

You will then go up through bead #8 to secure the bead in place. See photo 09

Pull your thread tight. You are now ready to add your next bead. 

Continue adding one bead at a time like above.

Pick up a bead, go through the thread between the bottom two beads, then go back up through the bead you just added. 

Continue this until you get to the end of your row. 

You will notice that when you get to the end of this row, your last bead (bead #10 in this example) will be indented a bit. This is what you want. Each row will be offset to one side compared to the one below it. 

To add the third row, it will be yellow in this example, you will pick up two beads again. See Photo 11

This is how you will start every new row, with two beads. Those beads will hang over the beadwork below it.

Go under the thread between beads #10 and #9. See photo 12

Pull your thread tight. 

When you pull your thread tight, your beads will line up next to each other. Bead #11 will hang over the row below it. 

Go up through bead #12 and pull your thread tight. See photo 13

Just like before, you will add the beads one at a time for the rest of the row. So pick up one bead. See photo 13

You will then go under the thread between bead #9 and bead #8. Pull the thread tight. Go back up through bead #13. Continue this method for each bead. 

The third row (yellow) will be offset from the second row (blue), but will line up with row number 1 (white). You can see clearly now why this stitch is called brick stitch. See photo 15

Continue adding rows like this until you get to your desired length. Each row will be offset from the one below it. It will look like peyote stitch on it's side. See photo 16

You can see how brick stitch compares to peyote stitch in photo 17 (peyote swatch is turned on it's side for comparison). 

Brick stitch is much more rigid than peyote stitch, so it is great for projects that need to hold their shape. 

So that is basic brick stitch. I use this stitch a lot for pendants, pins, and earrings because it is more rigid. I will be doing a tutorial on increasing/decreasing brick stitch at a later date. I will also be doing a tutorial on reading a pattern. So stay tuned for those! 

So what did you think of this tutorial. Leave me a comment below letting me know what you thought. Did I leave out something important? Should I explain something a bit more? Would you like more photos? I'd love to hear from you! 

This week I have a short and sweet tutorial for you. Today we'll be looking at Ladder Stitch. This is a simple basic stitch that is used as the base of many other stitches. It won't take long for you to learn and then you'll be ready to tackle stitches like brick and herringbone.

Here is the video tutorial. If you are not a fan of videos, the step by step instructions can be found below. Let's learn how to do ladder stitch.

So before we begin, we need to thread our needle. Make sure that you are using a comfortable length of thread for you.

You can read more about how to determine thread length in my flat even count peyote tutorial. Click HERE to read more.

For ladder stitch, we won't be needing a stop bead. So let's jump into the stitch basics.

Pick up two beads, see photo 02

Slide those beads down your thread until your have a comfortable tail length. You'll have two beads on your thread. See Photo 03

Go back up through the first bead in the direction of the string. So you will be making a loop with your thread. See photo 04

You will now have a loop of thread around your two beads. When you pull the thread taught, your beads will line up next to each other. This is the beginning of ladder stitch. See Photo 05

Then go back down through the second bead added. See Photo 06

This will reinforce the stitch and get you ready to add the next bead.

Pull the thread tight and your beads will snap together. See Photo 07

You are now ready to add your next bead.

Pick up ONE bead this time. Slide that bead next to bead #2. See photo 08

Then go back down the previous bead (bead #2). You will be making a loop and this will hold the next bead on. See photo 09

Pull your thread tight so bead #3 snaps in next to bead #2.

Go back up through bead #3. This will reinforce the stitch and get you ready to add the next bead. See Photo 10

Pick up one bead. Slide that bead close to your row of stitched beads. See photo 11

Go back up through the previous bead (bead #3). This will create a loop that will attach bead #4 to your beadwork. See Photo 12

Pull your thread tight to snap bead #4 in next to bead #3.

Then go back down through bead #4. This will reinforce your beadwork and get you ready to add your next bead. See photo 13

Continue adding beads this way until you get to your desired length. Your beads will line up next to each other forming a "ladder".

Here is diagram of the thread path in ladder stitch. You are basically making a loop each time you add a bead.

Now that you have a feel for ladder stitch you are ready for other stitches that use ladder stitch as a base, such as brick stitch and herringbone stitch.

I will be covering brick stitch in my next tutorial and flat herringbone after that. So stay tuned for more tutorials!

Even Count Flat Peyote Stitch - Click Here
Brick Stitch - Coming Soon
Herringbone Stitch - Coming Soon
Two Drop Even Count Flat Peyote Stitch - Coming Soon
Odd Count Flat Peyote Stitch - Coming Soon
And many more!

Other Helpful Goodies
Want to know how I keep track of where I am in a pattern? Click here to read about my method for staying on track.

What are my favorite beads to use for peyote? I love me some Delica cylinder beads. There are a number of awesome choices HERE. 

What are my favorite needles? Check out these great Tulip needles. They are some of the best needles out there. Click HERE for more info

This article includes affiliate links from Etsy. That just means that I get a little fee if you click on the link or purchase something and no additional cost to you. That little fee helps me keep writing these articles. All my opinions are my own. I am featuring these products because I love them. ​

Here is the video for all of you that prefer to follow along that way. It's short and sweet and shows you the stitch using large cylinder beads. 

If you're not that into videos or your somewhere were you can't watch a video, there are step by step directions under the video.

*Video will soon be available on YouTube*

So you want to learn how to do even count peyote stitch? Well, what are we waiting for, let's get learning. 

First, when doing any beadwork, you want to make sure that you are using a comfortable amount of stringing material. There are a few camps when you talk about thread length.

• One camp likes to use the full length of thread that will be used for the project. This way you never have to work new thread in.
  
• The second camp uses just an arms length worth of thread. This way you pull the thread through with one pull and you reduce the chances of tangles. You do have to work new thread in this way. 

I personally like to use the second method. I will measure out two arms lengths of thread, then I will double up the thread (sometimes I use a double thread, sometimes I use a single thread, but I pull 90% of the tail end through the needle, so it's about one arms length worth of material for each pull). I find this method is the easiest on my hands and arms when I bead. 

When I first started out, I tried the first method and it was so frustrating to me. I had so many tangles it made me want to give up, but I didn't want to work in new thread (a fear of all new beaders). But I eventually learned that working thread in is not something that should be feared and it's a lot easier than you think (there will also be a short tutorial for that). 

It is up to you what you want to use. There is no right or wrong way and you have to find the way that works best for you. 

To add a stop bead, take your thread and go through the bead. Then go back through the bead in the same direction you did to add the bead, creating a loop of thread around the bead. See Photo 02.

Make sure when you go through the bead to make the loop, you do not go through the thread with your needle. This will make it impossible to remove the stop bead and then you will be in have to cut it off and it's a whole mess. If you can move the stop bead back and forth with a little bit of effort, you are okay. If the bead won't move, you've gone through your thread and need to start over. Trust me, it's easier to start over now then once you have some baedwork done. 

Bead Tip
Make sure to leave a good amount of thread as your tail so that it's not a hassle to work it into your beadwork when you are finished.  

Bead Tip
I like to use a larger seed bead for my stop bead because I fell like it is easier to remove when you are finished. 

Okay, you have your needle threaded and you stop bead in place, now let's start the first row of beads. 

With peyote stitch, the first few rows are the ones that really throw people off. I know, I had the hardest time wrapping my head around how to start peyote stitch. 

To start, you string both row one and row two on your thread. See Photo 03. 

White is row one and blue is row two. 

So you have the first and second row of beads strung on your thread. Now it's time to add the next row. Pick up one bead, in this case I used yellow beads for the third row. Take your needle and go through the second bead of your string of beads (this is not counting the bead you just added).

So in this example, you will go through the first blue bead on your string. See picture 04 

Pull your thread snug and make sure your bead pops into place. You will continue adding the third row this way. Pick up a bead, skip a bead, go through the next bead.

In this example you would pick up a yellow bead and then put your needle through the next blue bead. I then repeated that until I made it to the last blue bead. My thread now comes out the last blue bead. This will start to create the staggered look of peyote stitch. See Photo 05

Bead Tip
The first couple rows of peyote are tricky to start and get aligned. The beads will want to twist, so you have to make sure you are keeping track of which row is which. The larger the beads you are using, the easier it will be to keep your beadwork flat and organized. Once you have 4 rows of beadwork done, your beadwork will be a lot more manageable. I know it is frustrating, it was my least favorite part when I first started, but keep going, you'll get it and it will ge so much easier with practice. And if it makes you feel better, I've been beading for years, and starting a peyote project is still my least favorite part. 

Once you reach the end of the third row it is time to start the fourth. Pick up a bead, in this case the forth row beads are green. Just repeat the steps from above, skip the first bead and go through the next bead with your needle. Pull the bead snug and repeat.

In this example, my thread came out the last blue bead. I then picked up a green bead, went through the first  yellow bead, picked up a green bead, went though the next yellow bead, picked up a green bead, and when through the last yellow bead. My thread now comes out the last yellow bead of the the third row. See Photo 06

When adding the fourth row, make sure you are aligning the third row beads correctly. Your beads may be twisted after you add the third, but once you add the fourth row, they are going to lay flat and it will be easier to add all other rows.  

Bead Tip
You can work your beadwork in one direction and then the work it in the oposite direction for the next row. Or you can flip the beadwork after each row so that you are always beading in the same direction. This is something you will have to try and see which method works best for you. Like a lot of things, figure out what you like and go with it. 

So now that we have finished the fourth row, it's time to start the fifth. I'm sure you've guessed how that is done. Yup, pick up the bead for your fifth row, in this case an orange bead, and skip a bead and then put your needle through the second bead from the end of you beadwork. Pull the thread snug and repeat.

In this example, my thread coming out the last yellow bead. I picked up an orange bead and then put my needle through the first green bead. I then repeated this, until I reached the end of the row. See Photo 07

This is repeated again and again until you are finished with your beaded goody. ​

This is what your thread path will look like. The beads will be staggered and they will fit in-between each other. Your thread will go through each bead two times. 

You work the beadwork in one direction and then in the other direction. Each time you pick up a bead, you will go through the "up" bead with your needle from the previous row. See Photo 09

And that's how you do basic flat peyote stitch. The biggest hurdle for new beaders is starting the stitch. It's frustrating, even for seasoned beaders. But once you've mastered the first few rows, it's easy sailing. ​

Bead Tip
If you are just starting out, I suggest skipping the pattern and do a single color item first. This will help you get use to how the stitch works. Once you are comfortable doing just the stitch itself, you can move on to learning how to read a pattern. Reading a peyote pattern is a lesson in itself, which we will be covering at a later date. For now, work on simple bracelets or maybe some pen wraps. Something that will help you become comfortable with working the stitch. ​

Thank you for sticking around for my first ever tutorial. Go ahead and let me know below what you thought. What was I miss? What did you like about it? What else would you like to see? I'd love to hear from you. 

Want to know how I keep track of where I am in a pattern? Click here to read about my method for staying on track.

Looking for Perler Beads to get started? There are numerous choices on Amazon or even in the craft section of most stores.

What are my favorite beads to use for peyote? I love me some Delica cylinder beads. There are a number of awesome choices HERE. 

What are my favorite needles? Check out these great Tulip needles. They are some of the best needles out there. Click HERE for more info. 

I have tried so many things to keep my place when working a beaded pattern. The list is long. Some worked great, some worked not so great. But after a lot of trial and error, I found my absolute favorite way to keep my place in a beaded pattern. Read on to learn more. 

This post contains some affiliate links. That just means that if you click on one of them and purchase something I get a little fee at no cost to you. My opinions are all my own and don't affect the review at all. I'm reviewing these products because I use them everyday when I bead.

Any beader that uses a pattern knows what a pain it can be to keep your place, especially if it's a complicated pattern. I've tried dozens of options, some of them worked and some of them did not. 

Before I get to far into this today, lets talk about digital vs. printed. A lot of people like to print out their patterns. I am on the fence about it. I have been trying to be good to the environment and use digital patterns more often then printed ones. I still tend to lean toward printed patterns and that is what I'm going to focus on today. I can talk about what I do when I use a digital file in a future article. But, today, it's all about reducing waste and staying sane while using a printed beadwork pattern. 

So what have I used? 

The real question is, what haven't I used? I kid, I kid. 

When I first started making my own beadwork, I would print off the pattern and use a permanent marker to mark off where I was. I tried both regular markers as well as the highlighters. Now don't get me wrong, I love markers as much as the next girl, well maybe a lot more (I own every color made by Sharpie. I'm not joking about that). And This method worked fine, but I could not use the pattern over again. That meant into the garbage (well recycling) it went. I just did not like that I was wasting so much paper and ink (because not only is printer ink expensive, it just so wasteful to print and throw away). So this was okay, but I need something more earth friendly. 

Side note, those Sharpie gel highlighters are the bomb. They don't smudge anything. I've tried them on all sorts of things and they are the best highlighters I've ever used. I have been using them for years and love them. Hint, hint, Sharpie. I'll take a truck load of those as well as your permanent markers and pens. Thanks. 

So on the next stop on my quest to find a more eco friendly alternative, I tried sticky notes. This was a nice alternative. I could print out a pattern and not have to throw it away. It sounded like a great option.  

​Now a lot of beaders use these. A lot of beaders swear by these. And that's great, but, they just didn't work for me when I used a beaded pattern. And it's not because I do not like sticky notes. I love them. Almost as much as I love markers and pens. I mean look at these cute London ones. Oh my, how cute are those. 

​But I digress, I was not a fan of the good ol' sticky note (or using a ruler) for beading because I felt like the sticky note would fall off and I would lose my place. And I felt like the stickiness would never make it through a whole pattern. I mean those bad boys are mot meant to stay sticky forever. And here I was with throwing away paper again. So the quest continued. ​

I was looking for a way to reuse a printed pattern and have little to no waste. And one day while I was trying to think of a better way, I came up with sheet protectors. 

Now here's a little back story on how I came up with these. My mom used to work for for Avery, so our house has always been full of office supplies. Which means I had a mountain of sheet protectors (as well as a whole lot of other office supplies) lying around. I already used them to keep my printed patterns organized in binders. So, what if I just kept them in there and then wrote on the sheet protector? 

Ignore my scribbles. I don't even remember what they were. Hahahaha. 

And it worked pretty well. I tried using both dry erase markers as well as permanent markers. Both had some ups and downs, but over all I was pretty happy with this method. I actually used this method for years. I would just wipe off the protector when I was done and I would have a perfectly usable pattern that I could make again. I was happy with this discovery. 

That was, until I found an upgrade!

While perusing the local dollar store, I found these great page protectors in the school supply isle (I love back to school time and supplies. You might have noticed that already). They are made for little kids who are learning to write. The kids can trace letters and numbers with dry erase markers and then just wipe them off when they are done. Allowing them to use these page protectors over and over again. I was in love. 

Of course I grabbed a few of them. I told myself that if they worked and if I felt like I needed more, I could always come back and get a few more. 

They are really nice heavy weight plastic, so they hold up to numerous beading projects. The sides are fabric, so they don't cut or scratch like some of the page protectors I've used in the past. 

I've been using the same two for years now, and they still are great. You can see my daughter added a little bit of bling to one of them so I would never be boring. I love these guys. 

They work great if you use the word chart to keep track of your pattern. You just cross off the row you just did and move on to the next.

They work great if you use the graph to make your pattern. You just cross of the beads you have used and move one. And if you are like me and bead two rows at once, it's super easy to cross off the rows you have done. 

I just picked up some more for my daughter. She starts school this year and since it will be online until future notice, I knew these would work great for her practicing her writing. 

A note about the markers I use. I've found that the retractable dry erase markers are the best because you can use them one handed. You don't have to put everything down to take a cap off the markers, mark the pattern, and then put the cap back on. Just a click, a swipe, and another click and you are on your way to the next row. 

And of course I have the pack of a million colors, because why just buy one or two when you can have the whole rainbow! 

So that's how I keep my place when I bead. I never loose my place anymore since I've gone to this method. Give it a try and let me know what you think. 

Like I said before. I will be talking about how I use digital patterns and keep my place in a future article. 

Leave a comment below on how you keep track of your patterns. I'd love to see some suggestions that I haven't tried yet.